Why does my horse do this?

[J.Everheart]

My horse is an OTTB who has the opposite problem of most ex-racers. He won't go! Yesterday we started out on a ride and we got a little ways down the road. He walked slower and slower until he finally came to a complete stop. He stopped in the middle of a dirt road and just stood there. He didn't seem scared; he was just looking around. I squeezed with my legs, slapped his rump, and used every other "GO" signal I could think of, but nothing. We sat there for at least 5 minutes. Finally, a car came and I had to hop off and lead him away. I know I lost the battle of wills by dismounting and rewarding the behavior, but I had no choice because of the car! Any ideas why my horse is doing this? Any ideas on how to get him to move his feet?

[Andrea]

When he stopped did you kick him on with one or two legs? My horse had a simmilar problem, and i was told by a respected natural horsman, that kicking with two legs is a signal for his horses to stop, as by doing that you are brining both hind feet together. Hence they come to or stay stopped, so by engaging only one rear leg(kicking on with one leg only), you should find you have some succes in getting your horse to move one. It has worked for me in the paddock so far, yet to try it on the road. Good luck

[Jen B]

I also had a lazy OTTB who was a successful race horse. There really are laid back TBs.

It does sound like passive resistance and evasion, which is a lot better than rearing and spinning! I would be careful not to have it escalate to that by getting into a power struggle (ie kicking and using the crop). I agree natural horsemanship and arena work would be good and add that giving him a clear (but fair) message to keep moving on when he begins to peter out, rather than waiting for him to actually stop would be more effective. I little squeeze to move on early is better than having to resort to the crop later. (and a lot better than getting hit by a car!)

[Donna Humber]

Agreed, JenB. I had a similar problem many years ago, also an ex-race horse and when I felt the horse "sticking" at the walk..[.she was really balking ], I immediately asked for the trot. The trot was ugly, but at least forward, and when we'd done a few meters of trot, I'd ask for the walk again. Everytime she slowed at walk, she was trotted on. Not harsly or anything, but I DID insist. It took only ONE session for her to realize that she might as well walk on properly. I asked for several transitions, and when all was calm and bright, turned toward home at a gentle trot...asked for the walk and ended the session. She rarely repeated this behavior after that, but in the spring, occasionally it would crop up, and I just did the same...sluggy walk=more work. Never let her get to the stop...unless YOU choose to. I also agree with the blinker situation, had a friend with an OTSTB, and he was hot..but still balky, but we found he wasn't used to seeing AROUND him, and was worried by all the scary things suddenly appearing in his wee world. We just worked him at home for a couple of months until he was more automatic in obedience, kept the hacks short at first, and he eventually went on to be a star in Distance competition.

[Faye Rose]

You didn't lose the battle. The horse has not learned how to respond properly, that's all. He's doing his own thing and you haven't got it figured out yet, so don't feel like you haven't won yet!
I don't know your level of riding, so please don't take offense to some things I offer as advice.
Did you try turning his head around to your knee and asking him to move off?
Did you try backing him up?
If he's non-responsive, I'd go back to ground basics and teach him commands from the ground. Start with backing. Parelli has some great advice on games to teach your horse so that he becomes responsive to you on the ground which translates into responsiveness under saddle. I've been riding for over 45 years, and still am learning from everyone.
Remember that race horses aren't taught much more than go and stop and run hard, so the horse has no basics to go back to, and he'll have to be re-trained.
Basics on the ground, driving from the ground, drive him on the road, hand walk him on the road, play with him and get to know him. If he can learn to trust you, there's another part of the issue conquered. Because it's not about "winning" it's about developing a relationship where YOU are the head of his herd, and what you say, goes.
Good luck with the horse. He really sounds like a sweetheart if he isn't afraid, that's half the battle. I wish I was there to help you with hands on, because training is what I do for a living.

[Teresa D.]

You've had some great responses to your question so far. How has your progress been since the last post? Have you had a chance to ride him in company?

[J.Everheart]

Since this post, I have done a TON of groundwork with him and that has transferred to our work under saddle. He has become more responsive and more focused on figuring out what I'm asking him to do. Also, my trainer suggested that when he refuses to move forward I spin him in tight circles 3 or 4 times and then ask for forward motion again. This works very well. I've also learned to solve the problem before it starts. When I feel him getting sluggish, I sit up straight in the saddle and add a little leg. The change in my seat and the slight leg pressure is usually enough to remind him to get back to work. Since I've used those 2 methods, I haven't had the same problem. We were just getting to know each other when I posted this, so he was probably testing me to see what he could get away with!

[Teresa D.]

Thanks for the update. It sounds as though your training sessions are going well, and that you're establishing a partnership - which is really exciting. All the best in the future. Happy trails!

[Donna Humber]

Excellent ! Glad to hear things improved. Keep us posted.